Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and tourists alike swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, Unesco recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a prestigious list of global cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it becomes part of a global network of over 400 urban centers across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "stands as proof of its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and dynamic gastronomic culture," as stated by a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this time-honored city comes as no surprise to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, lively, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is at last in the limelight for what has perennially defined its soul: an unparalleled love for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a constant conversation from morning until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and raised to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of culinary innovations, fusing Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates fresh harvests but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – little-known delights that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a unpretentious joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and complicated. The artisan whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however say that their children are unwilling to master the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will encourage more people worldwide to explore these tales and visit the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
